I stood up and caught my breath, then I realized my surfboard was already washed back to the shore. Jack picked it up and told me I was brave. I apologized that I broke the foot strap. He said that it happened a lot, many first-timers get hit by the waves, I just needed to paddle faster. I was scared because I felt like I almost died out there. But when I saw the surfers riding the waves and going freestyle, I knew I wanted to do it again.
After a few more tries and some more choking on water, I finally managed to ride on one baby wave that afternoon. For my first surfing attempt, I felt very satisfied and proud of myself.
Taking Mansour on his first surfing experience was meaningful to me as I have never introduce this activity to anyone else before. It feels really good to show someone something I love to do.